Simplification, transparency, and simple, gentle beauty routines, with products that limit environmental impact, resonate strongly in the new clean beauty. It seems we've decided to put away peels and acid-soaked masks in favor of gentler formulas, with the sole purpose of enveloping the skin in a mantle of security. Terms like "renew," "repair," and "heal" are gaining traction.
As Pedro Catalá, an expert in botanical formulation and founder of Twelve Beauty, once said, "good tone is the new wrinkle." Consumers are no longer seeking to eradicate the signs of aging as much as to optimize their beauty routines with active ingredients that treat their skin well, learning more about each ingredient in the beauty products they are buying.
These appear to be the latest guidelines for new clean beauty and are summarized in these five trends:
Skin type classification is crumbling
Talking about dry or oily skin seems like an outdated discourse. Because the perspective of time has shown us that, in the present, if there is an epidermal idiosyncrasy that stands out above the rest, it is sensitive skin. According to reports, it's a growing problem, either because it has become sensitized by the overuse and misuse of cosmetics, or by the choice of inappropriate products.
Dry, oily, combination, or normal are obsolete categories that cosmetic brands and consumers who seek global care to strengthen and keep their skin healthy no longer embrace. A new approach that focuses more on ingredients that do not sensitize, that strengthen the barrier function and maintain water reserves—21st-century standards for perfect skin.
Without category and without gender. Clean beauty brands focus more on gentle products that do not alter the skin, are multifunctional, scent-free, and have textures suitable for all audiences. "Whenever I formulate, I have sensitive skin in mind," a mantra for Pedro Catalá that he manifests in each of his products.
Examples such as Ideal Moisture Level Serum or Rapid Eye Treatment, two of the brand's most popular products, meet current standards thanks to their lightweight textures that instantly melt into the skin, their lack of fragrance, and their immediate action, providing only what the skin needs to maintain its balance.
In-house, artisanal, and micro-batch manufacturing
Production in small batches was the lifeblood of small artisanal brands. In-house production gives them control and a marketing angle against companies that outsource goods. Especially with many of the clean ingredients they are working with, it is much safer. In addition to ensuring product freshness and intensive action.
Twelve Beauty products are made in the small studio-laboratory that the brand has in Ondara (Alicante, Spain). Many of them are handcrafted using ancient apothecary techniques, such as The London Mask. The manufacturing process for each unit takes three days, and approximately 50 units are produced. This is why this coveted product often has a waiting list of up to 3 months.
Upcycled Beauty: A step beyond sustainability
Giving waste a new purpose. We are referring to upcycling or creative recycling. When it comes to cosmetics, it's possible that it all started with coffee grounds or fruit pits, dying ingredients that gave new life to natural exfoliants of the new era. It is one of the latest practices that more conscious beauty is adopting, not only in terms of sustainability but also effectiveness.
An example is spent grain wax, a waste product obtained from the residue generated by malt in breweries, very rich in Omega 6 fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid crucial for the regeneration of the epidermal barrier and for reducing itching and other symptoms of sensitive skin.
Twelve Beauty uses this by-product of high cosmetic value in several of its products, such as Jojoba Quench Body Serum, a cosmetic gem with rapid absorption and immediate action, nourishing and repairing body skin. Furthermore, its innovative packaging is made from 100% post-consumer recycled aluminum, rounding out its sustainable nature.
And Nutritive Repair Emulsion, a repairing emulsion excellent for dry, irritated, and sensitive skin, which boasts some of the most sustainable ingredients found on Earth among its key components.
Stressed skin, the new cosmetic target
Skincare products with soothing ingredients that address current issues, such as inflammation and damage caused by high cortisol levels (the stress hormone), are on the radar of today's consumers. The pandemic left a trail of epidermal misfortunes that we are still dealing with.
TWELVE's formulas are designed to protect and restore the skin, improving its functionality and promoting its health, both inside and out. To restore homeostasis to stressed skin, there is Dara’s Water, the cleansing water that counteracts negative effects on the skin, thanks to its organic oat and rose extracts, custom-made for Twelve Beauty, which soothe and restore balance.
"To counteract the effect of stress on the skin, there is nothing better than Nutritive Repair Emulsion. Its high content of essential fatty acids makes it an effective remedy against inflammation. In fact, many clients consider it a natural antihistamine," says Pedro Catalá.
Other active ingredients, such as Niacinamide and mallow extract, are like a silk robe for the skin. Ultra Revitalising Elixir contains 5% Niacinamide, plus other powerful antioxidants, making this refreshing facial mist a must-have for neutralizing free radical damage.
Mallow extract has a great moisturizing and soothing effect on the skin. Its high content of essential oils and tannins plays a crucial role in minimizing damage. It's no wonder it's present in Rewarding Body Balm, one of Pedro Catalá's most special products, as it was the trigger for what Twelve Beauty is today, capable of enveloping and protecting even the most damaged and dehydrated skin.
All about the Eyes. The gaze, in the industry's focus
If there was one segment of the industry that thrived in 2020, it was the eye care category. And it shows no signs of slowing down, quite the opposite. Changing habits and protective measures have put this key area of the face in the spotlight, gaining more prominence than ever. Powerful formulas that deliver unique—and fast—results are the most requested products.
Therefore, Rapid Eye Treatment, awarded Best Eye Contour 2021 by the Beauty Shortlist Awards, is a unique formula. Developed with floral extracts and plant peptides, it provides comprehensive care for the eye contour, instantly smoothing and firming, as well as reducing the appearance of puffiness, dark circles, and signs of fatigue, especially due to lack of sleep.