Niacinamide is one of the preferred ingredients among natural cosmetic fans. The properties of niacinamide and its high tolerability even in sensitive skin have made it a star vitamin, widely used in skin care. It naturally derives from nicotinic acid found in many cereals and brewer's yeast. Once isolated, it undergoes a chemical reaction to become niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or vitamin PP. I have always been opposed to including it in my formulations due to the high amounts of nicotinic acid, this residue can cause an unpleasant redness of the skin, especially when high doses of it are used. Recently, a raw material manufacturer has launched a new version with the lowest amount of nicotinic acid residues, at that moment I knew that the time had come to use it. Niacinamide has been linked to depigmenting products to lighten the skin, there are even studies that consider it more effective than hydroquinone without the side effects, but its effectiveness, in my opinion, goes further. For me, the key function is the fact that it contributes to skin homeostasis, which is the essential step for epidermal cells to function better. Due to this ability, it is an ingredient that adapts to all skin conditions, from dry to oily, including the most sensitive types. As a formulator, I believe it is always important for the client to perceive an immediate effect and a long-term benefit. In the case of niacinamide, improved skin elasticity is the first thing users notice. Then follows a long list of other rewards:
- Helps repair UV-induced cellular skin damage.
- Rebalances skin tone by preventing pigment from rising to the outermost layers of the epidermis.
- It is an excellent antioxidant as it protects the skin against free radicals.
- Increases the amount of ceramides, collagen, filaggrin, and involucrin. This helps strengthen the skin barrier.
- And, finally, an interesting effect on sebum reduction and the calming effect that decreases the severity of acne and minimizes the risk of possible lesions.
New natural cosmetics must be effective and safe, and niacinamide represents both characteristics. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.