Water is life! If you don't believe it, just look at our skin. Recent studies have shown that even slight changes, as little as 10%, in its water content leave the skin vulnerable to external factors. This is why providing the skin with this crucial element is necessary, but at the same time, not all waters are equal. When we are about to buy any beauty product, we practically scrutinize the ingredient list like a forensic expert. But have you ever thought about checking its water content and investigating its origin?
If your answer is 'No', keep reading...
Although marketing experts consider it an archaic discourse, quality matters. This parameter is determined by its physical-chemical and microbiological properties, among others.
The water used in cosmetic formulations must comply with ISO 3696 standards and European or American Pharmacopoeias. This water is free of ions that can interact with cosmetic ingredients, especially with surfactants (facial cleansers, shampoos, shower gels, etc.), and has an almost undetectable bacterial load. Purified water purchased from various suppliers in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic sector comes with a certificate of analysis from the moment it was packaged. Unfortunately, there are no guarantees that this water will maintain the same conditions during transport and storage as when it was packaged by the time it is used. Therefore, it is crucial to invest in a water purification system in the laboratory with proper maintenance.
Water can make up more than 70% of the total content of the formula and serves as a vehicle for ingredients soluble in it, such as some active ingredients and even preservatives. Water provides the skin with key components of the protective barrier (a mixture of sebum and water) and the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). Some manufacturers decide to replace purified water with distilled flower water, which at first glance seems like a good alternative, but in reality, these products are often wash waters, with almost undetectable beneficial components and a fairly high level of impurities. The problem lies in having to use a chelating agent to counteract these impurities; this category of ingredients can cause irritation and allergies in sensitive skin.
A well-planned laboratory
When people ask me for advice on how to start formulating their own products, they always expect me to talk about which ingredients to include or about state-of-the-art machinery. However, in my opinion, what is paramount is the laboratory's water purification system. In fact, it was the biggest investment I made when I set up my own studio and undoubtedly the first instrument I installed, even before thinking about packaging! This way, I can guarantee that all our products are made with medical-grade analytical quality purified water, making the formulas as clean and pure as possible, and ensuring greater compatibility with the skin, even the most sensitive ones.
