We are in the era of 'skintellectual' beauty, a movement in which the most technical aspects of formulation hold no secrets for the general public. Those who try to find logic in this trend often cite the power of social media, which has been crucial in fostering the 'active ingredient culture'.
Peptides, retinoids, or niacinamide are not strange terms for lovers of good cosmetics (and if it has a scientific basis, all the better). Given this landscape, beauty editors around the world are asking in their prominent reports: which active ingredients are chosen by skincare experts? There are clear winners: retinoids, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid are on the podium of the most chosen, backed by scientific studies that support their efficacy.
However, this does not guarantee that they will work well on all skin types. To clear up any doubts, Pedro Catalá, Doctor in Pharmacy, expert in botanical formulation, and founder of Twelve Beauty, a market leader in clean cosmetics, answers some questions that often remain unaddressed:
Which active ingredients truly make a radical change to the skin?
– The function of an active ingredient depends heavily on its purity and how it is integrated into the formula. Therefore, consumers must identify what works well for their skin, and from that moment on, consistency in its use will make the difference, as achieving results in some cases requires days, even weeks, such as with depigmenting agents.
They say there are no bad brands, only poorly chosen products. With which active ingredients would we never go wrong?
– I wouldn't dare to lean towards one over another. Each of us is different and reacts in diverse ways. Let's remember that even water can be irritating in some cases. In cosmetics, there's a lot of trial and error. That's why I consider product samples to be fundamental.
And as a pharmacist expert in skin care, what are your favorite active ingredients?
– I have worked as a pharmacist for two decades, and during this time, I have decided to differentiate myself from the trend of products and active ingredients present in pharmacies. Without wanting to disparage any sector. And I say this as a self-criticism, as I am very proud of our profession, but the offer of active ingredients is limited. It is true that the focus on functional and hypoallergenic substances is interesting, but I find it insufficient.
The moment I decided to change my approach was when I better understood acne-prone skin and what could be recommended. I always found it difficult to choose effective remedies that would benefit the skin and not work against it. It was then that I began to study more botanical extracts, such as Epilobium, which helps regulate the enzyme responsible for sebum production (5-Alpha reductase). Just like vegetable oils, which, despite their 'bad press,' can greatly help this type of skin.
Note: Contains Epilobium Ideal Rebalancing Level Serum.
What about retinoids, the active ingredient most recommended by dermatologists?
– Of course, it's a good ingredient. Now, is it the best ingredient? Of course not. Formulators, professionals, and the general public like to stay in their comfort zone and consume what they know. If you ask me why I don't include them in Twelve Beauty products, I would say that when formulating, I always have sensitive skin in mind, and unfortunately, retinoids and their derivatives are not recommended for this skin type as they can cause certain allergic reactions, redness, dryness, etc.
Will hyaluronic acid continue to be the all-powerful ingredient in formulations?
– In my opinion, yes. I don't think it will go out of style like other ingredients, especially those of natural origin. Why is it almost an essential active ingredient in every cosmetic? Because it is highly compatible with the skin's natural composition. The risk of allergic reaction is minimal, and the result is visible from the first application.
Note: Contains Hyaluronic Acid Ideal Moisture Level Serum.
Is there life beyond retinoids and hyaluronic acids?
– Of course there is. There are fantastic ingredients that I encourage you to experiment with, such as Artemisia extract, as one of the most potent natural antioxidants comparable to pure vitamin C but without its stability problems. Also, spent grain wax, which comes from a waste product of the food industry and is perfect for soothing irritated skin.
We must not forget that inflammation is one of the skin's worst enemies. Also, of course, Buddleja extract, excellent for repairing and protecting skin cells against pollution and solar radiation, is virtually unparalleled.
Note: Contains Artemisia and Buddleja extracts Artemisia Power Protection Moisturiser SPF50+; and spent grain wax, Jojoba Quench Body Serum.
What should the perfect cosmetic contain?
– There is a blend of active ingredients that, despite not being new, always works well. Therefore, although they may not be spoken of as key ingredients, it is true that they never fail. One could say they do their work behind the scenes. Among them, allantoin (a compound present in the organisms of many mammals, plants, and bacteria with healing and epithelializing functions), panthenol (a crucial pro-vitamin in regenerative metabolic processes of the skin), and Sodium PCA (a kind of natural moisturizing factor re-converted into a cosmetic active ingredient), among others, stand out.
Note: Contains allantoin and panthenol The London Mask; and sodium PCA Ultra Revitalising Elixir.
What will be the active ingredients of the future?
– The new aging is not wrinkles, but loss of tone. Considering the lifestyle many of us lead, the active ingredients of the future will be those that treat stressed skin and improve barrier function to make it less vulnerable to both internal stress and external factors like extreme weather. I see a rise in plant-based alternatives to retinol; some of the studies are very encouraging.
Are "exotic" active ingredients more effective?
– I understand the "appeal" of exotic active ingredients and all they promise, but my formulation balance always leans towards more traditional and familiar ones, as we know them better, they have been studied for decades, their traceability is easier, and, in most cases, their molecular profile and properties are almost identical to rare ingredients or those from unusual places. An example is patauá oil, extracted from an Amazonian palm tree, with a profile exactly like our precious olive oil.