With this cosmetic guide, we will review some frequent terms as a vocabulary to help you master the language of the 'beauty' world.
A: ANTIBACTERIAL
Ingredients such as propolis, cinnamon, or eucalyptus essence, as well as essential oils like thyme, lemon, and rosemary, contain many natural molecules with antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal activities. They do not have a broad spectrum, meaning they only attack certain species of microorganisms. They cannot replace other disinfectants like alcohol, but they can complement our protection if we are looking for a more natural approach.
B: BIOFLAVONOIDS
These are natural compounds found in numerous plants such as cocoa, soy, lemon, broccoli, and acai, among others. They have numerous functions, primarily protecting and strengthening capillaries, and acting as antioxidants and soothing agents. Highly recommended for rosacea, varicose veins, tired legs, and/or swollen ankles.
C: “CLEAN” (BEAUTY)
This term generally refers to cosmetics free of certain synthetic ingredients, although it does not necessarily imply that all ingredients used are natural. It is also often used as an alternative name for natural cosmetics. Considering that natural is not always best, this term should include natural and synthetic ingredients that do not have a negative impact on skin health.
D: ATOPIC DERMATITIS
As its name indicates, it is an inflammatory pathology that can appear in different parts of the body. There is a higher incidence in colder months. Natural remedies do not eradicate this disease but they do eliminate annoying symptoms. Ingredients such as vegetable oils that have an emollient action combined with natural extracts such as oat, licorice or "spent" grain wax are alternatives to cortisone creams.
E: ELASTIN
It is a protein present in the skin, which provides elasticity and the ability to deform when subjected to mechanical stress. Sometimes we find it in the ingredient list but it has no functional validity due to its high molecular weight which prevents its cutaneous absorption. Its hydrolyzed form (cut into smaller molecules) favors penetration but loses its effectiveness.
F: FERULIC (ACID)
Potent antioxidant with SPF properties. Unfortunately, its use in cosmetics is limited due to its rapid degradation, altering its organoleptic properties (it smells metallic and darkens the formula within a few hours) and losing all its activity.
G: GLYCOLS
These are a group of hydrocarbon-derived alcohols, the most common on labels being Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol, and they act as humectants. Some studies link them to the appearance of eczema, which is why it is best to avoid them, especially in sunscreens or body creams where we apply larger quantities.
H: HIBISCUS
Hibiscus flowers are highly valued in new natural cosmetics because they contain sugars (moisturizing and soothing), pyruvic acid (exfoliating), amino acids (strengthens the skin's barrier function), and antioxidants (protection, slimming in body creams). Its extract is known as the true "multitasker" of cosmetics.
I: IMPERATORIA
Behind this impressive name lies a plant with an unknown property: it is re-epithelializing, a very rare and coveted quality as it is essential for improving the appearance of the skin and a "must" in cases of rosacea.
J: JOJOBA
Its main characteristic is that it lacks glycerin, which is an almost unique particularity among vegetable oils; for this reason, it is a liquid wax, despite being called an oil. The first study that confirmed it was a wax and not an oil was published in 1933. It is highly stable against rancidity. The reason is that it possesses natural antioxidants that protect it against oxidation phenomena.
K: KALAHARI
Kalahari melon oil primarily comes from the Sahara and Kalahari deserts. Today, it is found throughout much of the African continent. In cosmetics, its unknown origin and high content of linoleic acid (omega-6), along with a healthy dose of vitamin E, have made it a star ingredient. If we prefer to opt for its more traditional counterpart, the alternative would be sunflower oil, which from a chemical standpoint is very similar and its cultivation is also highly sustainable throughout the Mediterranean region.
L: LAKE
This is a synthetic pigment that often "slips" into natural makeup where intense red is very difficult to achieve. On labels, they are preceded by the color name, a number, and followed by the acronym CI and another code (e.g., Red 6 Lake CI 15850).
M: METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE
These are two synthetic preservatives, whose trade name is Kathon CG. It is still present in many "paraben-free" products as it is very effective despite being associated with numerous contact allergies. It is not approved in any natural product.
N: NITROSAMINES
Known carcinogenic compounds are not present in cosmetics, but there are ingredients that could favor the formation of these substances, such as Triethanolamine (TEA) and Diethanolamide (DEA). Although these ingredients are safe at recommended doses, it's better to avoid them, right?
O: ETHYLENE OXIDE
Although many synthetic ingredients are difficult to identify when reading a label, there is a large group that has been processed in the laboratory with ethylene oxide. All those with the prefix PPG, PEG or the suffix '-eth'.
P: PALM (OIL)
Although there are certifications that endorse its sustainability, unfortunately there is no truly sustainable palm oil since more than 7 million hectares are already dedicated to its cultivation (with corresponding biodiversity losses). If you want to eliminate it from your cosmetics, some ingredients that contain it or are derived from it are: Vegetable Oil, Vegetable Fat, Palm Kernel, Palm Kernel Oil, Palm Fruit Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Palm Olein, Stearic Acid, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Palmitic Acid, Palm Stearine, Palmitoyl Oxostearamide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Lauryl Lactylate/Sulphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Ethyl Palmitate, Octyl Palmitate, Palmityl Alcohol.
Q: QUERCETIN
This is the antioxidant responsible for many food ingredients (apples, grapes, olives, citrus fruits, tomatoes, onions, broccoli, capers, tea, red wine, among others) becoming part of our favorite cosmetics due to their antioxidant and restorative properties.
R: ROSACEA
Although there are many cases where it has been misdiagnosed, it is a very common inflammatory pathology. It should be treated with antioxidants that strengthen capillary fragility and are soothing. Azelaic acid can be considered a natural alternative to metronidazole gels.
S: SODIUM PCA
Despite being a traditional ingredient, no one has managed to dethrone this carbohydrate as one of the best hydrating molecules. Its secret? It is part of the skin's protective hydrolipidic film and is capable of retaining large amounts of water.
T: DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED
Several tests carried out by a dermatologist fall into this category. It usually refers to the "patch test" where the product is applied for 48 hours to 20 volunteers and potential allergic reactions are observed. Due to the small number of people involved in the experiment, it is valid to give an indication to the producer but is not representative as we are all different. Moral: try before you buy.
U: UNDECYLENIC (ACID)
Natural preservative derived from elderberry, very common in hygiene products due to its citrus aroma. Despite its origin, it can be irritating to sensitive skin and there are numerous warnings regarding its use.
V: VITAMIN E
One of the most used antioxidants in natural cosmetics. It helps prevent the oxidation of vegetable oils and consequently extends the life of cosmetics that contain them. However, calculating the dose is complex but necessary to avoid the degradation of the finished product. Too little or too much (it becomes a pro-oxidant) leads to the rancidity of the oils.
W: WATER
Although it often appears at the top of the ingredient list, it should not be assumed that it indicates a low-quality product. In reality, water is necessary as many functional substances are soluble in it, thus acting as a vehicle for ingredients. Its origin and quality are important since it is present in around 70% of some formulas. I personally prefer purified water to distilled flower water; although I understand that it is a more "active" water than purified water, it can contain a high content of impurities as it is the residual water from washing natural ingredients before processing.
X: XANTHOPHYLLS
These are pigments responsible for the color of some plants and flowers with high antioxidant activity. The main sources are alfalfa and chlorella and spirulina algae. Lutein is one of the best xanthophylls, unfortunately little used in cosmetics due to its limited stability.
Y: YOGA (FACIAL)
It is very effective in combating skin sagging. Combine it with firming ingredients such as turmeric, gotu kola, hydrolyzed grain proteins, unsaponifiable oils, ginger...)
Z: ZINC
It is one of the omnipresent minerals in cosmetics with different actions:
Zinc oxide: Soothing and physical sunscreen (the only one allowed in natural products)
Zinc Pyrithione: Anti-dandruff
Zinc PCA: Moisturizing
