At this point in scientific research, the axiom is clear: the more sugar you consume, the more wrinkles you will have. That's how murky it is. This is the consequence of a phenomenon called glycation, a chemical reaction that occurs when beauty proteins (collagen and elastin) come into contact with glucose and become rigid. They 'caramelize'.
The skin loses moisture, becomes dull, less elastic and more brittle, a perfect breeding ground for the appearance of wrinkles. This is one of the reasons why sugar is a poison in the diet (apart from other absurdities such as diabetes). However, if we apply this succulent substance topically, magic!, the skin regains its smoothness and luminosity.
The main reason is because it gives us what we always look for in a good cosmetic: hydration, not only because it effectively captures it from the environment but because it retains it and prevents dryness. We have polysaccharides like Hyaluronic Acid, the 'almighty' in cosmetics, or the ancient glycerin, which, despite its age, continues to be a common and effective active ingredient in current formulas.
The new era of cosmetic sugars
Bio-glucans, glycans, polyglucoside complexes, polysaccharide matrices... The terminology becomes complicated in direct proportion to the new properties discovered. In other words, within the broad compendium of sugars in formulation, there are new types that refine their virtues by improving cosmetic action.
An example is the sorbitol present in Antioxidant Burst Shower Gel, as it provides stability in the presence of natural surfactants and does not leave the sticky feeling of other sugars (their main drawback) at high doses. Or the saccharide isomerate in Ideal Moisture Level Serum, naturally derived from plants, similar to the carbohydrates naturally found in the skin, and works as a moisture magnet, preventing transepidermal water loss.
Or Sodium PCA, present in Jojoba Quench Body Serum, more hydrating than glycerin, sorbitol or propanediol as it is hygroscopic (attracts and retains water). A natural derivative of glutamic acid, it is one of the key components of the natural moisturizing factor and provides the skin with freshness and elasticity. Furthermore, it is not sticky and does not influence the viscosity of formulations.
Ultra Revitalizing Elixir, in addition to Sodium PCA and Saccharide Isomerate, contains a saccharide hydrolysate obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of Schizandra berries, with a unique composition of peptides, sugars and hydroxy acids, which improves barrier function and hydrates and softens even the most sensitive skin.
Why is it of interest as a cosmetic active ingredient?
Not only for its enormous capacity to attract and retain water, its increasing popularity is due to the fact that it is a versatile and quite safe ingredient. Another particularity is that it is very water-soluble and, due to its chemical properties, it does not alter the pH of formulas.
It is an excellent prebiotic. When skin bacteria are well-nourished, the barrier function is more effective. These bacteria generate a metabolic byproduct: lactic acid, a very effective natural exfoliating agent that also keeps the hydrolipidic film healthy.