If there is one positive thing about the global pandemic we are experiencing, it is that it has made us all aware that microorganisms are everywhere: in the environment, on our skin, on our clothes, etc. That is why I believe it is a good time to talk about preservatives in cosmetics and why they are necessary.
The water present in cleansers, toners, serums, and emulsions is the preferred habitat for microorganisms. These are characterized by their ability to multiply and grow very quickly. Beauty products are the perfect breeding ground for them.
The first question that usually arises when we talk about preservatives in cosmetics is, why is it important to have a microbiologically pure product? A "contaminated" product can lead to an unpleasant odor, gas emission, abnormal color, product phase separation, decreased efficacy, and, in the worst-case scenario, the appearance of toxic substances that could harm us. The most common symptoms are rashes, redness, skin itching, and pustules. Therefore, they are more critical if they occur in the eyes.
Therefore, in addition to cosmetic brands working in an aseptic environment and complying with GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices), the use of a preservative is necessary to avoid all of the above. In other words, it is potentially more dangerous to apply a product without preservatives than one that contains an effective mixture at the recommended dose.
So today I would like to share some basic rules to help you become a professional in navigating the unexplored waters of preservation.
- A "preservative-free" product may contain preservatives such as sorbic acid or benzoic acid, which are less well-known but are still classified as preservatives.
- Preservatives have a higher risk than other ingredients of causing an allergic reaction, but some have a good safety profile.
- The two product categories we should be most careful with are anything we apply around the eye area and on children.
- Propolis and some essential oils have antimicrobial properties, but, as a formulator, I need very high doses for them to work, which is not viable.
- Sometimes the word "Parfum" on the label refers to a mixture of essential oils that have antiseptic action and their suppliers sell them as an alternative to traditional preservatives. I am a bit skeptical about them because they do not have a broad spectrum, again the doses must be higher than usual, and if you suffer from sensitive skin, you should avoid them.
- Very acidic or alkaline products are very hostile territories for bacterial growth, so there is little need for preservation. Unfortunately, the pH of the final product is important and your skin will thank you if you apply products with values around 5, which is the skin's pH.
- A "great" natural alternative to parabens seems to be grapefruit seed extract, too bad that, through extensive testing, scientists have found triclosan and synthetic solvents, so allow me to reformulate, this natural extract is not a "great natural alternative".
- Radish root ferment filtrate appears to be an effective natural preservative. What the label doesn't show is that it contains salicylic acid, so it is not advisable to use it during pregnancy.
- Sometimes, under the claim "paraben-free", we find other preservatives such as methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone, which have been associated with contact allergies.
- 10. As a final note, if you need more information, look for it in official sources such as cir-safety.org
