It is so familiar because it is practical, comfortable and also found everywhere… But do we really know what micellar water is and how it works? And most importantly, what impact can its continuous use have on the skin? So that you can draw your own conclusions, today I will explain everything at the formulation level about this star product of the 'beauty' world...
This week I was interviewed by the wonderful Cristina Mitre, on her podcast, among other things, I talked about the formulation problems of micellar water. With this I do not want to demonize this category of products, I have always said that the consumer rules and chooses what feels good to their skin. There have been many comments received in the successive days, which is why I have decided to present my arguments on the matter. What is micellar water? Micellar water is actually a mixture of water and surfactants (soap) although the name sounds much more scientific. The concept is wonderful, on the one hand we associate water with something delicate and pure, and on the other hand, the word micellar sounds like something technological, advanced and innovative to us. In cosmetic chemistry, surfactants tend to group together in water, forming spheres, called micelles, hence the name. Not all that glitters is clean In the classes I teach at the University of Siena, I always challenge students to "win me over" with a good micellar water formula. This seemingly easy "challenge" encounters many difficulties along the way. On the one hand, it must be effective in its cleansing function, removing stubborn makeup, dirt and pollution residues, on the other hand, it must be delicate, bearing in mind that we apply it especially around the eyes. Well, unlike most beauty products that are formulated at the skin's pH, slightly acidic (around 5), micellar waters must be formulated at a pH similar to the tear film of the eye (value = 7.4). Here we already have the first problem, for the eye area the pH is great, but for the rest of the face not so much, in fact, there are studies that show that the application of products with a high pH affects the elasticity and hydration of the skin. With this higher than normal pH, the preservation of micellar water is more complicated, since natural preservatives only work at lower values and at pH=7.4 the choice is more limited. Another problem arises when choosing the surfactant (soap) and its dose, which removes dirt but at the same time is not irritating. There are several options, from some traditional ones to amino acid derivatives and even natural sugar derivatives. The bad news is that despite their origin, all are potentially irritating. There is also the alternative of using solubilizers (which help, for example, to mix substances that would otherwise be impossible without them). It is true that they work well when removing makeup and are not so irritating, but they leave a certain residue on the skin that is not pleasant at all. As you can see, preparing micellar water is not an easy path, but if you have found a formula that suits your needs and your skin responds well, I certainly won't be the one to sneak into your bathrooms to eliminate this product category from your routine (but I do recommend rinsing your face always after use!).
To listen to Cristina Mitre's podcast, Is natural always better? (Episode 93) here is the link:
http://www.thebeautymail.es/cosmetica-natural-clean-beauty-sin-toxicos/
