Skin, made up of several layers of cells that protect our body, is much more fascinating than you might imagine. Cosmetics focuses on the hydrolipidic film, its outermost part. Maintaining the delicate balance between water-soluble molecules and the lipids that inhabit this film should be one of the highest priorities on our list if we are looking for healthy skin.
What is the hydrolipidic film?
The hydrolipidic film (also known as the acid mantle) is a tiny layer that covers almost all of our skin. Its composition is approximately 95% sebum and the remaining 5% water.
The "oily" part is responsible for regulating water evaporation, while the main function of the aqueous part is to maintain the hydration of the skin's surface.
This powerful barrier also prevents infection by microorganisms and gives our skin its characteristic scent, something like our olfactory fingerprint.
What happens when the balance is broken?
First of all, let's look at the composition of lipids and their function in the hydrolipidic film, which differs from the composition of lipids in the epidermis:
- Triglycerides (30-50%) Prevent skin dryness.
- Fatty acids (8-16%) Act as cement between cells.
- Waxes (1-2%) Help keep skin clean and are a key component, especially in the fight against microorganisms.
- Squalene (0.5-1%) Recent studies indicate an important role in protection against UV rays and reduction of water loss by evaporation.
- Cholesterol and derivatives (35-45%): They play a fundamental role in the structure and barrier function of the skin.
Each of them has a very specific and vital role for the functionality and health of the skin. An imbalance in the hydrolipidic film can trigger a host of skin problems, such as dryness, sensitivity, acne, and inflammation. Dry, flaky skin is perhaps one of the most frequent signs of a weakened lipid barrier, as this causes the skin to lose its ability to retain moisture. Another common sign that something is wrong with your acid mantle is suffering from sensitized skin. When the skin's barrier function stops working properly, external agents (such as irritants, bacteria, viruses, etc.) can penetrate it more easily, causing irritation and inflammation.
Did you know that acne can also be an indication of a lipid imbalance? Oily skin is usually characterized by an excess of oleic acid. And this, in turn, makes the sebum "denser," increasing the chances of clogging pores and causing pimples. Therefore, in many cases, acne improves by incorporating an oil or product rich in linoleic acid into our routine. (We recommend: Intelligent Frontier Facial Oil)
Learn how to keep your skin barrier strong
Caring for your skin's lipid balance is essential for maintaining healthy, radiant skin. Here are some tips to keep your barrier function strong:
- Use gentle and nourishing skincare products that provide key lipids. It's important not to overuse harsh ingredients like exfoliating acids and to avoid aggressive cleansers that strip natural lipids.
- Be careful with products containing alcohol or fragrances if you have sensitive skin. They can irritate your skin and weaken the lipid barrier.
- Keep skin hydrated with a moisturizer that contains ingredients that help strengthen the protective barrier.
- Protect skin daily from the sun with a broad-spectrum sunscreen or SPF.