Featured Ingredient: Squalane

Ingrediente Destacado: Escualeno

For me, squalene is a valid natural alternative to the most common ingredient used in cosmetics, "paraffinun liquidum", which is, from a chemical point of view, a hydrocarbon, just like squalene. It comes in liquid form due to its unique structure. I use the stable version called squalane. I selected it as one of the twelve key ingredients in the line because it protects the skin, thanks to its ability to regenerate the hydrolipidic film, which prevents damage from external agents. It is also moisturizing because it reduces water evaporation from the deepest epidermal layers (Transepidermal Water Loss) TEWL, as I mentioned in previous posts. As time passes, there is a loss of lipids, which is why squalene is a great addition to your routine to prevent dryness and provide elasticity. Squalene is found in the unsaponifiable fraction of various oils, mainly olive, rice, and pumpkin oil. As always, quality and extraction method are paramount; in fact, studies show significant differences in the amount of squalene from different olive oil suppliers. In my opinion, it is better to choose unrefined versions, as the cosmetic industry tends to use alkaline substances when treating oils, which considerably reduces the content.

Below, this table shows the squalene content in different oils, so you can have a better idea and make your own decisions.

TYPE OF OIL SQUALENE CONTENT (mg/kg)
Olive 1360–7080
Corn 190–360
Cottonseed 40–120
Peanut 130–490
Soybean 70–170
Sunflower 80–190
Sesame 30
Rice 400-3320
Grape Seed 70
Almond 210
Coconut 20
Flaxseed 40
Pumpkin 400-3529

In summary, squalene is part of human sebum and plays a key role in maintaining a healthy acid mantle. I use a high dose in the Rewarding Body Balm to mimic the skin's composition and in the Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream. In this case, my goal is to minimize the damaging effects of cleansing, returning one of its main ingredients to the skin. Thanks for reading!