Beauty products are not an invention of the modern world. In fact, history tells us of the desire to take care of our external appearance with a multitude of preparations. From the first exfoliants made with alabaster powder, honey, and salt, to anti-wrinkle creams made with cypress extracts from Ancient Egypt, nature has always been the best source of inspiration for hygiene and personal care products. However, it is important to note that, despite being of natural origin, almost all ingredients must be "processed" before they can be incorporated into any preparation. If you are reading this blog, it is because you are interested in natural cosmetics, which is why I want to share with you some tips to know if your cosmetics are natural or not.
Natural is in fashion. So much so that many brands, especially in the beauty world, have jumped on this trend. However, there is no specific regulation governing the term "natural" and, therefore, the label "natural cosmetics" actually means little. If a cosmetic includes a product of natural origin, it can be advertised as such on the label. But since all natural products undergo chemical processes to be used, it is important to know which processes are truly permitted by the natural cosmetics industry or certification companies. Let's go!
Vegetable oils
These oils are obtained by a method called "cold pressing," where the raw material is pressed and filtered to extract the oil. This process is considered "natural" by the industry. However, oils can also be obtained through complex distillation processes, depending on the part of the oil that needs to be extracted (also considered a natural process). Additionally, vegetable oils can be naturally deodorized.
Botanical extracts
Plant parts are brought into contact with a solvent for a certain period of time. The first doubt as to whether an extract can be classified as "natural" arises from the type of solvent used. For example, a solvent like propylene glycol is synthetic, while glycerin or water are considered natural. Another step that can disqualify the extract from being "natural" is when more solvent is added to reach the desired volume after filtering the mixture. Here, they might add more of the same initial solvent or a different one, and it may not be natural. Likewise, care must be taken with added preservatives to extend the shelf life of the extracts. Although preservative-free extracts exist, if the mixture in question contains one, it could well be artificial rather than natural. (And let's not forget the quality and purity of the extracts... but I'll save that for another post later!)
Hydrogenation
This is a chemical process used to alter the consistency of ingredients, and the final result can be classified as natural or synthetic, depending on the origin of the initial material. If the raw material is of natural origin, its use is permitted in natural and organic cosmetics. For example, I use hydrogenated oils in the Clementine Cleansing Balm, as this process not only gives them a fabulous texture, but also makes them less prone to oxidation, which is a very effective way to protect the formula.
Esterification
One of the broadest areas of cosmetic chemistry, esterification involves combining a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol with the help of a catalyst. However, as with the hydrogenation process, the resulting substance (ester) can only be considered "natural" if both the fatty acid and the alcohol are of natural origin. Examples of natural esters are jojoba ester and glyceryl stearate, which I personally love to use as these processed natural oils are very similar to the esters present in our own skin.
Ethoxylation
This controversial chemical process is one of the main reasons why it is essential for you to know if your cosmetics are natural or not. Ethoxylation is where ethylene oxide is added to a substance, resulting in a surfactant with foaming, cleansing, or solvent properties. In other words, ethoxylation makes a substance more water-loving and thus can be used in many more ways in cosmetics. Ethoxylated ingredients are NOT considered natural, and products containing them should not be labeled as such. "Clean beauty" formulas for skin and hair care often use saponified coconut oil or other milder surfactants or fatty acids. These ingredients are often more expensive but are much safer for the body. How to detect ethoxylated ingredients on your cosmetic label? Look for any ingredient that starts with PEG, PPG, or ends in -eth.
Those who have been following me for a while know that I always emphasize the importance of thoroughly understanding your favorite brands, the philosophy behind them, the ingredients they use, and what their definition of "natural" is. For me, "natural" beauty products are those made from sustainable ingredients of natural origin that are effective yet safe for the skin. It is essential for me that these raw materials undergo the fewest possible processes and that the methods used in their formation have very little environmental impact. This is my definition of clean cosmetics and natural consciousness.
