Collagen and elastin are the undisputed winners when it comes to skin support proteins. But there's another one that's gaining scientific interest: filaggrin, a protein found within cells and in the intercellular space, a largely unknown protein that, nevertheless, plays a crucial role in skin health.
It's not for nothing that it's called "the youth protein," and this unusual and growing interest in it may be driven by an alarming fact: recent studies confirm that low levels of filaggrin are linked to cases of atopic dermatitis, xerosis, and ichthyosis (extremely dry and even flaky skin). Cases, by the way, that currently dominate dermatology consultations.
The reasons for its importance: it is key in the skin's keratinization process (the formation of the protective barrier). And, once degraded, it generates amino acids and sugars that are part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), the most important natural mechanism for maintaining moisture in the stratum corneum, as these amino acids and sugars have excellent properties for attracting and retaining water on the skin's surface.
Beware of exfoliation, it could have more cons than pros
Although the cosmetic industry tempts us with the rejuvenating effects of exfoliation, we must bear in mind that excessive exfoliation "destroys" a good part of the skin, taking with it the deposits of the longevity protein. The reason is that filaggrin is present in corneocytes, the dead cells that are deposited in the skin barrier, and exfoliations get rid of them.
Physical exfoliations (using micro-granules) cause micro-cuts that damage the skin barrier. And chemical exfoliations (with active ingredients that dissolve the upper cell layers) literally abrade the skin... In both cases, goodbye filaggrin! Therefore, a good cleansing that is gentle on the skin or unclogging pores with therapeutic clays, such as those contained in The London Mask, is recommended.
Unsaponifiables: key to increasing filaggrin reserves
Unsaponifiable fractions, the most prized part of vegetable oils where the most effective substances with endless properties are found, are highly valued in cosmetics, not only because they improve barrier function, but because they are unique in stimulating filaggrin production.
It is one of the favorite ingredients of Pedro Catalá, cosmetologist, Doctor in Pharmacy and creator of Twelve Beauty, as well as being the main component of Intelligent Frontier Facial Oil, a light, dry-touch universal remedy for all skin types that, on the one hand, improves sebum quality by balancing combination and impure skin; and, on the other hand, provides essential lipids that restore dry skin, while improving barrier function.
Essential Bio-Technological Moisturiser is rich in sunflower oil unsaponifiables, which provide key lipids to strengthen the epidermal barrier and deeply hydrate. In addition to fortifying the cellular cement and stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and filaggrin, key proteins of the epidermis.
Nutritive Repair Emulsion is a night treatment balm that is a feast for dry skin. It contains cupuaçu butter, rich in polyphenols, top-notch antioxidants to repair cellular damage. In addition to grain wax, a waxy residue from barley from the food industry, which meets the requirements of the fashionable up-cycling trend, very rich in linoleic acid (Omega 6) which improves barrier function and reduces inflammation. (Twelve Beauty Tip: mix with a few drops of Intelligent Frontier Facial Oil for a highly regenerating treatment).