In recent years, ferulic acid has become very popular, becoming one of the main ingredients in many cosmetic products. In fact, this naturally occurring ingredient is a true gem thanks to its antioxidant capacity. However, in an age characterized by an excess of information (not always valid) and aggressive marketing campaigns, how can we know if what they tell us about this component is reliable? And more importantly, does it really live up to expectations? Lately, many of you have been asking me about ferulic acid and why products containing it tend to smell so bad (many of you comment that it has a "metallic smell"). As a formulator of natural products, I have the utmost respect for the formulas created by my colleagues in the industry. From personal experience, I know very well the time and dedication required to launch a new formula. After decades of exhaustive research into natural antioxidants, including ferulic acid, I am pleased to share some of my findings regarding this sought-after ingredient.
THE SCIENCE
Ferulic acid is a derivative of cinnamic acid present in the leaves and seeds of most plants. This plant-based antioxidant is found in particularly high concentrations in rice.
WHEN WAS IT DISCOVERED?
The first recorded mention of ferulic acid was in 1866, in Innsbruck, Austria. Scientists Barth and Hlasiwetz isolated the acid from the resin of the Ferula Foetida plant, but its biological benefits did not come to light until 1970, when Japanese researchers discovered its potent antioxidant properties.
WHY HAS IT BECOME SO POPULAR?
The beauty industry is constantly evolving and more than ever, experts are looking to include multifunctional active ingredients in their formulas, which is why the benefits of ferulic acid are so appealing to them. Its properties not only help protect the final formula, but are also considered among the most effective for combating free radicals and the damage they cause to our skin. In addition, in Japan it is often used in sun protection products to enhance their effectiveness and protect the skin from ultraviolet rays.
ARE THERE ANY DRAWBACKS?
Unfortunately, not all that glitters is gold, and there are numerous studies showing that ferulic acid becomes unstable, degrading rapidly when exposed to certain external factors such as humidity, air, and light (hence the strange smell). It degrades so much that it even begins to alter the function and effectiveness of the cream or lotion that contains it.
IS THERE A SOLUTION?
To prevent ferulic acid from oxidizing in this way, it would need to be "encapsulated" to protect the final formula while still making its potent benefits available to the skin. The drawback is that the encapsulation process is very long and complex, and requires a difficult-to-execute analytical method to verify the final result. Therefore, although there is a solution, the encapsulation process can only be done in small quantities – something that obviously makes the process unfeasible in mass industrial production. Here is an example of one of my own controlled Ferulic acid tests conducted in the Studio: TEST 1: In the Essential Bio-technological Moisturiser, I mixed 5% encapsulated ferulic acid and left the formula for 24 hours. The mixture showed no signs of change or deterioration after the elapsed time. 
TEST 2: This time, in the Essential Bio-technological Moisturiser, I mixed 5% free ferulic acid and left the formula for 24 hours, just like the other time. The mixture clearly showed signs of deterioration (a change in color and a rancid smell) after the elapsed time.
CONCLUSION
Although ferulic acid is well-known for its potent antioxidant ability and is found in many products on the market, I believe that much more research is needed for this antioxidant to truly provide benefits to our skin and be safe to use in formulas.