The daily ritual of applying a moisturizer or sunscreen seems harmless and even comforting. However, many products we use daily contain ingredients that can disrupt the body's delicate hormonal balance. So much so that the use of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics is increasingly attracting the attention of scientists and regulators.
As awareness of cosmetic ingredients grows, so does the European Commission's commitment to identify, assess, and ultimately eliminate these substances from consumer products. In this article, we will explain what endocrine disruptors are, why they matter, and how you can make safer choices, including why Twelve Beauty has always taken a step forward, consciously formulating without them from the beginning.
The Regulatory Framework for Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics
Europe is a global leader in cosmetic safety. The EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is recognized as the strictest framework globally, ensuring that all ingredients undergo rigorous evaluations before reaching the consumer. Although this regulation already prohibited substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction (CMR), there is now a specific focus on endocrine disruptors in cosmetics.
Since 2018, the European Commission has strengthened its efforts to assess potential endocrine-disrupting chemicals present in beauty and personal care products. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) plays a crucial role, conducting independent risk assessments and issuing scientific opinions that guide EU decisions on ingredient restrictions or prohibitions.
In 2019, the Commission published its Priority List of 28 substances () suspected of having endocrine-disrupting properties. This list, known as the EU "red list," was divided into Group A (high priority) and Group B (requires more data). These assessments represent a decisive step towards greater transparency and safety in the cosmetic field, allowing consumers to make more informed decisions about the products they use daily.
The EU's Main Suspects: Group A
Group A of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics includes substances under the strictest review due to significant evidence of hormonal interference. We focus on the main ingredients currently facing increased scrutiny:
1. Propylparaben (Preservative)
Used to extend the shelf life of products, propylparaben can mimic estrogen in the body. This has raised concerns about possible effects on reproductive health, limiting its use in some products. Consumers may still find it listed as INCI Propylparaben in older or imported products.
2. Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) (UV Filter)
Present in many sunscreens, Benzophenone-3 absorbs UV rays but can act as an endocrine disruptor, affecting hormonal function and development. Its environmental impact, such as coral bleaching, has led conscious brands to prefer safer physical filters.
3. Octocrylene (UV Filter)
Octocrylene degrades when introduced into formulas with benzophenone, a known endocrine disruptor and potential allergen. Its persistence in the environment and potential danger from bioaccumulation mean that the SCCS continues to evaluate it, while many countries have already strengthened their regulation.
4. BHT (Butylhydroxytoluene) (Antioxidant)
Used to prevent the oxidation of oils and creams, BHT can interfere with thyroid and reproductive hormones. In fact, in the early 2000s, it was found in the vast majority of vegetable oils, even in organic ones.
Summary: Group A ingredients: Propylparaben, Benzophenone-3, Octocrylene, and BHT, represent the endocrine disruptors in cosmetics most likely to face future restrictions, highlighting the importance of checking labels and choosing transparent brands.
The Next Wave of Review: Group B
Group B of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics includes substances that still require more data for a full assessment. Although their priority is lower, they remain under close surveillance.
1. Butylparaben (Preservative)
Related to propylparaben, butylparaben is already considered a substance of very high concern (SVHC) under the EU REACH regulation due to its potential as an endocrine disruptor and reproductive toxicity. It is still found, but its presence raises growing concern.
2. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (UV Filter)
Also known as Octinoxate, this UV filter can mimic estrogens and affect thyroid function. Many conscious consumers opt for non-nano mineral filters, such as zinc oxide, as safe alternatives.
3. BHA (Butylhydroxyanisole) (Antioxidant/Preservative)
Chemically similar to BHT, BHA can influence hormonal activity even at low concentrations. Its inclusion in Group B indicates that it could face more severe restrictions soon.
4. Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) (Silicone)
Used in conditioners, primers, and serums, Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) provides a silky texture but is persistent in the environment and can bioaccumulate. Its potential as an endocrine disruptor continues under scientific evaluation. It will soon be banned, but in the meantime, it is still used, so pay attention to the ingredient list.
These surveillance measures reflect the European Commission's commitment to protecting both human health and the environment, offering consumers clear information to choose safer products.
Why Endocrine Disruption Matters: The Connection to Health
Understanding endocrine disruptors in cosmetics requires knowing how the endocrine system works. This network of glands and hormones regulates metabolism, reproduction, mood, growth, and development. Even minor interference can have significant health effects.
Endocrine disruptors act by mimicking, blocking, or altering natural hormones. Uniquely, they can produce effects even at very low doses, which means traditional toxicity assessment methods do not always predict their true impact.
Possible health effects include:
- Reproductive or fertility problems
- Developmental alterations in children and infants
- Thyroid dysfunction
- Potential links to certain types of hormonal cancers, such as breast or prostate
Additionally, it is important to consider cumulative exposure: a single product may contain minimal traces of an endocrine disruptor, but the combination of cosmetics, food, and water can increase the total burden. This precautionary approach by the EU highlights the relevance of choosing conscious and safe products.
Our Commitment: Twelve Beauty is Free of Endocrine Disruptors
Since its launch, Twelve Beauty follows a simple principle: health and safety are non-negotiable. All our products are carefully formulated to be free of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics, going beyond EU regulations.
We combine scientific expertise and botanical knowledge to create products that are effective and safe. This means avoiding not only parabens, oxybenzone, or BHT, but also any substance included in the EU's Priority List of 28 endocrine disruptors.
Instead, our formulas use:
- Botanical extracts rich in antioxidants and phytochemicals
- Natural emollients that respect the skin and the environment
- Mild natural preservatives that ensure safety without compromising effectiveness
- Mineral UV filters that protect and are respectful of the marine ecosystem
How to Choose Safe and Conscious Cosmetics
The European Commission's action against endocrine disruptors in cosmetics marks a decisive shift in beauty product safety. With the SCCS continuously evaluating ingredients and new restrictions on the way, consumers now have more tools to choose consciously.
What you can do to protect your skin and well-being:
- Check INCI lists: pay attention to names like Propylparaben, Benzophenone-3, Octocrylene, and BHT.
- Prioritize certified and EU-regulated products, which undergo rigorous safety assessments.
- Choose transparent brands that voluntarily exclude questionable ingredients, even before the law requires it.
- Opt for natural and scientifically validated alternatives that respect your skin and your hormonal balance.
At Twelve Beauty, we believe that conscious beauty is based on science and transparency. Understanding endocrine disruptors in cosmetics allows you to make informed decisions, taking care of your skin, your health, and the planet at the same time.