This week, while managing a video call, I received an email from a brand fan asking me about the phenomenon of pilling on the skin. This led me to reflect on the fact that, while formulators understand why this happens and how to prevent it, most people lack this information. Therefore, today I want to clarify this issue and share some tips on how to avoid it.
What is pilling?
Although not everyone has heard of the term “pilling effect,” it is likely that most of us have experienced it at some point. I am referring to those “pellets,” “balls,” or “crumbs” that sometimes appear on the skin when we apply a cosmetic product. I like to call it the “eraser effect,” because those small pieces of rubber that remain on a sheet when we erase something written with a pencil are very similar to the sensation that certain skincare or makeup products leave on the skin, especially if we have applied several products one on top of the other.
These little balls form when a cosmetic product does not penetrate our skin correctly. Instead of being absorbed, they remain on the surface of the skin in the form of small particles that flake off.
The main culprits of this phenomenon are products containing ingredients that form a "film" on the skin. The most common are polymers (which appear on labels as copolymers or cross polymers), silicones (common in foundations and water-resistant SPFs), and pullulan (natural firming products). Moreover, even ubiquitous ingredients like hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen, aloe vera gel, and mineral oil can cause "pilling" on the skin.
How to prevent your cosmetics from pilling when applied
It’s almost impossible to avoid all the ingredients mentioned above, therefore, we recommend trying the following tips to prevent the pilling effect when applying your favorite cosmetic:
- Sometimes, formulas pill if you apply too much. Try using less product or apply your usual amount but in two layers.
- Observe how each product behaves when applied. Pilling can occur when combining several products that contain ingredients that form a film on the skin. In this case, it would be useful to modify the routine, for example, by moving some products from the morning routine to the night routine and vice versa.
- An extra boost of prior hydration works wonders. Apply a small amount of facial oil or serum before the product that tends to pill on the skin. Pilling usually happens when the skin absorbs products instantly.
- Change the order of application. Try applying your cosmetics from the lightest to the thickest, making sure to give them enough time to absorb before applying the next.
Although pilling is not a skin problem itself, it can affect the effectiveness of your skincare routine. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to how your cosmetics behave when applied and preventing them from forming pills. It's the small details that can make a big difference in your quest for luminous and healthy skin.