Whether you're a skincare expert or just starting in the world of cosmetics, combining your products can be a challenge. The key to radiant skin lies in understanding the key ingredients in your favorite formulas. In this guide, you'll discover the fascinating world of active ingredients, how they interact, and how to combine them for healthy, glowing skin.
How ingredients influence your facial routine
Navigating the world of active ingredients can be complicated. Cosmetic products often contain a complex mixture of ingredients, some of which can interact unfavorably. Imagine applying a cream that causes irritation or redness – exactly the opposite of what you want! Understanding the different types of ingredients (humectants, antioxidants, brighteners, etc.) allows you to make informed decisions. This knowledge is key to creating a personalized routine that gives you the desired results without unwanted side effects.
The different types of cosmetic ingredients
Below, we explain some of the main ingredients commonly found in common cosmetics:
- Active Ingredients: Key components that treat specific skin concerns, such as wrinkles, acne, or hyperpigmentation. Examples include retinol, vitamin C, and AHAs.
- Humectants: Ingredients that attract and retain water in the skin, keeping it hydrated. Hyaluronic acid and sodium PCA are common humectants.
- Anti-aging Ingredients: Combat the signs of aging by stimulating collagen production and firming the skin. Peptides are widely recognized for their anti-aging properties.
- Antioxidants: Protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, promoting a healthy appearance. Artemisia umbelliformis and vitamin E are antioxidants with numerous studies supporting their effectiveness.
- Brighteners: Even out skin tone and improve hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, yarrow extract, and mint extract are effective brighteners.
- Surfactants: Cleanse the skin by removing dirt and sebum. Be careful, as some can dry out the skin, even those of natural origin.
- Emulsifiers: Combine water-based and oil-based ingredients into a smooth, cohesive product.
- Preservatives: Prevent the growth of microorganisms and extend the shelf life of skincare products.
- Emollients: Soften and smooth the skin, giving it a silky texture. Jojoba oil and shea butter are common emollients.
- Solvents: Dissolve other ingredients, ensuring a uniform product.
- Fragrances: Provide pleasant aromas to products, but can irritate sensitive skin if used in high concentrations.
Our recommendations and precautions
– Retinol: This powerful ingredient combats wrinkles and acne. However, it can dry and irritate the skin.
Pairs well with super-hydrating ingredients: such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vegetable oils rich in ceramides and unsaponifiable fraction, to counteract the dryness that retinol can sometimes leave.
Avoid combining it with:
- Benzoyl peroxide: A common acne treatment that can negatively interact with retinol, causing irritation and redness.
- AHAs/BHAs: These chemical exfoliants can weaken the skin's barrier, making it more susceptible to irritation caused by retinol.
- Salicylic acid: Another acne treatment that can interact with retinol, causing dryness and flaking.
- Physical exfoliants: Such as facial scrubs or brushes, which can irritate skin already sensitized by retinol.
– Vitamin C: A true brightening hero, vitamin C combats hyperpigmentation and stimulates collagen production. While powerful, it can be unstable.
Pairs well with:
- Vitamin E: An antioxidant that helps stabilize vitamin C and improve its absorption by the skin.
- Glutathione: A compound that helps enhance the brightening effects of vitamin C.
- Hydrating ingredients: such as saccharide isomerate, to keep skin hydrated and prevent dryness.
- SPF: Broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential to protect skin from UV rays, which can degrade vitamin C.
Avoid combining it with:
- AHAs/BHAs: These chemical exfoliants can diminish the effectiveness of vitamin C.
- Benzoyl peroxide: An acne treatment that can deactivate vitamin C.
- Retinol: While some studies suggest that vitamin C and retinol can be used together, for sensitive skin, it is better to use them at different times of the day to avoid irritation.
– AHAs/BHAs: These chemical exfoliants remove dead skin cells, revealing a smoother, brighter, and more even complexion. However, they can make the skin more sensitive to sun and irritation.
Pair well with hydrating active ingredients, unsaponifiable oils, and a good layer of sunscreen.
Avoid combining them with retinol, vitamin C, or niacinamide as this can cause dryness and irritation.
– Niacinamide: This vitamin B3 offers a variety of skin benefits, including reducing inflammation, regulating sebum production, and diminishing dark spots.
Pairs well with:
- Retinol: Niacinamide can help soothe potential irritation caused by retinol.
- Hyaluronic acid: Niacinamide can help improve the absorption of hyaluronic acid into the skin.
- Ceramides: Niacinamide can help strengthen the skin's barrier.
Can I use niacinamide and vitamin C together?
There is conflicting information regarding the use of these two active ingredients together. We recommend using them for their many benefits, but at different times of the day due to their different pH values. Some studies show benefits when combining them, so it depends on your skin type and the product formulation. Start slowly and do a patch test to see how your skin reacts. If you have sensitive skin, you may need to avoid this combination altogether.
Can AHAs and BHAs be used together?
Can AHAs and BHAs be used together?
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are powerful exfoliants, and their combined use requires a strategic approach. Here's what you need to know:
AHAs: Derived from fruits and milk, AHAs work on the skin's surface, dissolving dead cells and promoting cell renewal. They are excellent for dry, mature, or sensitive skin. They are water-soluble. Common AHAs include:
- Glycolic Acid: Known for its anti-aging properties, it stimulates collagen production for smoother skin.
- Lactic Acid: Milder than glycolic acid, it hydrates and exfoliates, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
- Mandelic Acid: Ideal for brightening dull skin and combating hyperpigmentation, it's a larger molecule, making it less potent as it doesn't penetrate as deeply into the skin.
BHAs: Derived from willow bark, BHAs penetrate deeper into pores, unclogging them and reducing acne breakouts. They are a perfect option for oily or acne-prone skin. Additionally, they are oil-soluble. One of the most common BHAs is:
- Salicylic Acid: Reduces acne by exfoliating and removing dirt from pores. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Using AHAs and BHAs together: Although possible, it is recommended to do so with caution. Initial flaking is common. We recommend following these guidelines:
- Start slow: Introduce one acid at a time, gradually increasing the frequency if your skin tolerates it well.
- Alternate: Choose which one you want to start with at the beginning of the week and alternate daily.
- Patch test: Apply a small amount of product to the inside of your arm and wait 24 hours to check for irritation.
- Listen to your skin: If you experience excessive dryness or redness, stop using the products immediately.
- Intense hydration: Use a rich moisturizer to replenish your skin's natural barrier.
- SPF is non-negotiable: Both AHAs and BHAs increase sun sensitivity, so daily SPF 30 or higher is a must.
The importance of application order in your facial routine
Now that you understand which active ingredients complement each other, let's review the application order to achieve your best skin:
- Start with the thinnest consistency: Apply water-based serums and treatments first, as they penetrate the skin more effectively.
- After water, oil: Follow with thicker oil-based products like creams. This helps seal in water-based products and prevents them from evaporating.
- Consider ingredient interactions: Avoid layering actives that may deactivate each other or cause irritation. Refer to the compatibility section above for more information.
- Complementary ingredients: When layering actives, choose products with complementary ingredients to enhance their benefits. For example, combine a retinol serum with a moisturizer containing rich vegetable oils to soothe potential dryness.
- Don't forget your eyes: The delicate eye area requires a softer touch. Opt for products formulated to treat this sensitive area. (Our favorite is Rapid Eye Treatment, rich in peptides).
- Sunscreen as the final layer: Regardless of your routine, SPF is non-negotiable. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day, even when it's cloudy. (If you're a fan of our self-tanner Glow Island, remember to apply it after SPF).
Alternatives for sensitive skin
If you have sensitive skin or wish to avoid the potential side effects of active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, or AHAs/BHAs, here are several reliable candidates you can count on:
- Natural alternatives to retinol: Plant extracts such as Bidens Pilosa offer a gentler approach to achieve retinol-like results, without the adverse side effects. (Find it in Plant Perfection Gel Serum)
- Brightening alternatives: Opt for organic serums with botanical ingredients that address hyperpigmentation and lack of radiance. A non-photosensitive option is Ideal Brightening Corrective Serum. Furthermore, it is suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
- Exfoliating alternatives: For a gentler exfoliating action, use clay masks or an activated charcoal-based cleanser that helps decongest pores without drying out the skin. (We recommend Charcoal Peace Calming Cleanser or our iconic The London Mask).
As always, a consistent but delicate facial routine is the key to achieving healthy, glowing skin. Don't overload your skin by using too many active ingredients at once. Listen to your skin and adjust your routine according to its needs. This guide will help you get started, but for personalized recommendations tailored to your specific concerns, consult our team.