Trend consultants predict new glory for clays, those natural cosmetic muds, usually used as a facial mask, capable of transforming the skin in seconds. Some assure that the trigger has been the popular #multimasking trend that shook social networks, awakening a new passion for this multifaceted ingredient.
A delight for young audiences due to its playful texture, fun colors, and ability to address a good number of epidermal problems in a short time, such as excess oil, dullness, or clogged pores. The development of new transforming textures and sensory experiences, such as cleansers that go from gel to oil, and from oil to milk, or masks that do not dry on the skin, has contributed to their blossoming.
"Clays are those 'rare birds' in cosmetics since there is nothing they can't handle," clarifies Pedro Catalá, founder of Twelve Beauty. "There are studies that certify their effectiveness in anti-cellulite, anti-stretch mark, hair loss, anti-wrinkle, exfoliating treatments, and there are even cases where they have improved eczema, allergies, boils, acne, blackheads, sunburn, etc."
A long-standing ingredient turned trend
A trend, yes, but not new. The use of clays dates back to prehistory, where they were already used for therapeutic purposes, to heal wounds, soothe irritations, or as a method of skin cleansing and beauty. Galen, the Greek physician and philosopher, prescribed mud therapies as a medicinal treatment. Even today, many indigenous tribes continue to smear their faces and bodies to protect themselves from solar radiation or mitigate imperfections or irregular pigmentation.
The Egyptians used a soapy paste made with ash and Nile mud to beautify their skin. And in Ayurveda, India's oldest health science, mud, clay (or earth), has the ability to heal the body from within and correct any imbalance since it contains a large amount of vital minerals that fight harmful toxins in the body.
Its chemical composition: a source of virtues
Volcanic ashes, muds from thermal springs, or sands washed by the sea. Depending on whether they come from the sea or land, their molecular composition may contain variable amounts of minerals such as iron, magnesium, and other cations (positively charged ions) that give them countless therapeutic properties.
Calcium ions activate aquaporins in the skin (water channels) to balance water content and increase water retention and are key to maintaining cellular balance and permeability. Potassium helps preserve the water balance of the skin and cells. Zinc, an essential trace element, repairs and collaborates in the development of new cells and DNA, acting at the extracellular matrix level (essential in acne-prone and seborrheic skin). Silica, the beauty mineral, participates in collagen formation, repairs and softens skin, hair and nails, and minimizes wrinkles and expression lines.
Or selenium, which protects against cell damage and preserves tissue elasticity. All clays have the property of promoting the ionic exchange of minerals. Due to their high capacity to trap fat and toxins, they are exceptional for deep cleansing, detoxifying, and counteracting the harmful effects of pollution.
A rainbow full of good virtues
White, green, purple, pink, red, and even black. The chromatic range of this masterful ingredient is extensive, its hue varies depending on its mineral composition and that determines its cosmetic action. One of the most common and perhaps best known: kaolin or white clay, with hydrating, purifying, and calming properties, as well as preventing impurities that cause imperfections.
It has a powerful sebum-regulating effect, making it the perfect alternative for oily or impure skin, but it also benefits dry skin, as it maintains the moisture of the hydrolipidic film, as well as mature or dull skin due to its rejuvenating, remineralizing, and calming effect.
Charcoal Peace Calming Cleanser is a repairing tri-phase cleanser that, in addition to kaolin, is formulated with plant-based activated charcoal. This exclusive combination ensures a deep cleanse for congested or problem skin, but also for sensitive skin – Twelve Beauty's priority – respecting its complex idiosyncrasy.
The London Mask also contains kaolin in its nourishing formula. But the feat of this mask, one of Twelve Beauty's most special products (it usually has a waiting list due to its artisanal and complex elaboration method), is that it solves one of the drawbacks of clays: that when they dry on the skin, they leave a rigid and tight layer that can irritate it.
"I've always been a big fan of the properties of clays, but not of the tight and dry feeling that remains afterwards. That's what prompted the research behind this product," explains Pedro Catalá. "Therefore, preparing the emulsion by hand allows me to 'position' the calming and moisturizing ingredients so that they are more in contact with the skin. This way, we take advantage of the purifying and tone-improving effects offered by clays, but without their dreaded side effects."
And it does so by adding squalane, which has a high affinity with the skin, as it is one of the main components of human sebum and the hydrolipidic film. Rice starch, which leaves a protective and softening film. In addition to Allantoin, Mallow flower, and cucumber extract that soothe, refresh, and hydrate.