It is no secret that I have a soft spot for San Francisco, one of the most iconic cities in the United States. In the mid-90s, when I discovered Armistead Maupin's books, I was increasingly eager to visit the city. I always had a great imagination, so his books were the best form of escapism when I felt a little overwhelmed at university.
Two decades later, when I received an email, not from 28 Barbary Lane, but from 1825 Bush Street, I was overjoyed. Dara, the founder of Ayla, my first store in the United States, is one of the most caring, welcoming, and generous people I know. Just as Anna Madrigal was to her tenants, Dara looks after her exquisitely selected brands as if they were her own creations and her customers as her best friends. I see them as extended members of the Ayla family rather than anonymous customers. Here, we all have first and last names.
This week, I gladly accepted the invitation to come and meet Ayla's growing "family" and teach a workshop on how to make your own natural face masks. The moment I stepped off the plane, I suddenly remembered how unique, to say the least, San Francisco's climate can be. This not-so-subtle reminder set off my skin's alarm. In some parts of the day, the air feels very humid, especially when it's hot; but hours later, it feels like my face has appeared in the desert. The cold waters surrounding the bay cause these sudden changes in air humidity. In other words, warmer temperatures retain moisture in the air more effectively, but cold air cannot retain it, so it feels dry.
In situations where you experience sudden changes in air humidity, humectants are very useful. Humectants are ingredients that can maintain the correct degree of moisture in the outer layers of the skin because they have a high affinity for water (hydrophilic), which counteracts skin dryness and prevents evaporation. Humectants bind to water molecules from the environment (and also those present in skincare products), and at the same time keep them firmly in contact with the skin. I always combine humectants with other ingredients such as emollients (ceramides and plant-based butters, for example) and film-forming molecules like squalane, a true natural alternative to petroleum jelly. The uncomfortable feeling of tight, dry skin that San Francisco's climate gives us led me to review why good humectants work perfectly in this city as an antidote to the air changes that come with everyday life, in addition to the low temperatures and central heating, so common in winter. Here is my selection of the best humectants to look for in your skincare products. Saccharide Isomerate, is a plant-derived sugar similar to the sugars naturally present in the skin. It binds to water for long periods of time (up to 72 hours), ensures hydration and improves the overall appearance of the skin. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width="1/4"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text text_larger="no"]
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[/vc_column_text][woodmart_products post_type="ids" items_per_page="1" product_hover="standard" include="3907" columns="1" sale_countdown="0" stock_progress_bar="0" highlighted_products="0" products_bordered_grid="0" lazy_loading="no"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/4"][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text text_larger="no"] Sodium PCA: also known to beauty "geeks" as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate. It is one of the main components of the skin's NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). It is responsible for the "fresh skin" look. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width="1/4"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text text_larger="no"]
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Hyaluronic acid: an excellent humectant. Here, I am referring to sodium hyaluronate, which is the salt form of the famous hyaluronic acid. Because size matters, bigger is better, and high molecular weight creates a permeable film to keep the skin elastic and lubricated. In contrast, the low molecular weight variety (which appears on ingredient labels as "hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid") is basically a normal-sized hyaluronic acid molecule, cut into smaller sizes to improve skin penetration.
[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width="1/4"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text text_larger="no"]
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[/vc_column_text][woodmart_products post_type="ids" items_per_page="1" product_hover="standard" include="3913" columns="1" sale_countdown="0" stock_progress_bar="0" highlighted_products="0" products_bordered_grid="0" lazy_loading="no"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/4"][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text text_larger="no"] Glycerin: is perhaps the best-known humectant. It is considered the benchmark ingredient for hydration in the humectant category. On the downside, high doses provide a sticky feeling on the skin, so proper formulation is very important. Propanediol is similar to glycerin but with a better skin feel at high doses.
Lactic acid is another wonderful ingredient found in our skin's NMF. At low doses, it works as a humectant; at high doses, it works as an exfoliant.
Sorbitol is another star ingredient known for its ability to draw moisture from the air. I would personally avoid it in places with extremely low humidity (desert climates and airplane cabins)
