The desire to "know more" about what we apply to our skin and the need to find new cosmetic ingredients with antiseptic and balsamic properties that boost natural immunity and soothe skin devastated by new skincare routines, are putting certain active ingredients on the radar that are driving sales and buzzing on the Web.
Soothing and especially antioxidant ingredients are at the top of the most requested ranking. But also ingredients that strengthen the skin's protective barrier, that are friendly to the microbiome, those that prevent trans-epidermal water loss, or even out skin tone. In our particular list of essential ingredients that are climbing the ladder to fame, these are the most relevant.
Schizandra Berries, the Secret of the East for Longevity
Schi... what? Schizandra berries, or Schisandra, ever since adaptogens made their stellar appearance in the wellness world, have become the crown jewel for overall health and skin in particular. Considered the "quintessence of tonic herbs" by Taoists, they gained great fame for their ability to help generate beautiful skin.
It was a beauty secret of ancient Chinese women, as it improves skin and its functions. Due to its astringent quality, the skin tends to retain its moisture, acquiring that 'plumped' and vital appearance. There is a Chinese belief that assures that consistent use of Schizandra ensures longevity, both inside and out; the skin regains its luminosity and becomes clear and fine after several months of use.
And it is precisely this coveted ingredient one of the most expensive found in Twelve Beauty formulas, present in Ultra Revitalising Elixir, developed from a blend of active compounds obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of Schizandra berries, with a unique composition of peptides, sugars, and hydroxy acids. This combination improves barrier function and soothes.
Vitamin B, the Ally for Altered Skin
Until now, the celebrities in the vitamin cast had been A and C, but B (especially two of its derivatives, Niacinamide or B3 and Panthenol or B5), is stealthily making its way through the crowds. Its credentials: the skin absorbs and tolerates it very well, although the most benefited are skins prone to dryness or eczema due to its moisturizing action.
Niacinamide is a great ally because it helps maintain the barrier function intact, unclogs pores, reduces irritation and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Niacinamide also benefits dry or flaky skin as it increases the natural level of ceramides, awakening its moisturizing and nourishing function.
B5, also known as pantothenic acid, is another important B vitamin often incorporated into cosmetics. It soothes, softens, and keeps the skin flexible. Its best assets: it not only improves hydration at the surface level, but also reduces transepidermal water loss and is an effective soothing agent, making it perfect for irritated skin.
The coveted formula of Great Barrier Relief Cream contains both forms of vitamin B, enriched with Niacinamide and Panthenol, to reduce hyperpigmentation and restore optimal hydration levels. This hand elixir is particularly effective for dry, dehydrated, cracked, and sensitive skin.
Epilobium, the Microbiome's Favorite Food
“I'm seeing Epilobium extract everywhere,” Pedro comments. “Although I started using it in late 2007, it's no wonder it's all over the place because it’s not only an effective remedy to naturally reduce excessive sebum production, but it’s also closely linked to the ‘good face effect’ concept. Furthermore, recent studies have shown its positive impact on microbiome health, favoring the proliferation of good bacteria and eliminating harmful strains,” he concludes.
Indeed, the online search for remedies to control excess oil and acne on the skin has doubled since the pandemic erupted due to mask use (a phenomenon the press began to call “maskne”). A good remedy is to use cosmetics containing a high concentration of Epilobium to prevent possible outbreaks, not only because it reduces the amount of sebum, but also because it prevents the growth of microorganisms.
Ideal Rebalancing Level Serum is rich in Epilobium. It strengthens the dermal barrier to face hormonal changes and external agents that alter the skin's natural balance. It controls excess sebum and minimizes the appearance of dilated pores, making it a great "flash" effect product.
Polysaccharides, the Virtuosos of the INCI
Sugar compounds are responsible for the skin's natural ability to maintain hydration and retain water. They are fundamental for epidermal repair and renewal. They have been used in skincare for decades, as a stealthy filler cosmetic ingredient in high-level formulas. But their many virtues definitely resonate now.
Their most succulent property is that they restore the skin barrier, generating a protective "film" on the skin that maintains balanced and delayed hydration (chrono-release). With protective action and inhibiting allergic reactions, they provide softness and well-being.
There are many examples, such as Ceratonia siliqua Gum (or carob gum, present in Rapid Eye Treatment), a blend of sugars obtained from carob tree seeds, which forms a viscoelastic film on the skin, improving the appearance of fine lines. The Saccharide Isomerate in Ideal Moisture Level Serum, which acts as a moisture magnet preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Or Sodium PCA, which is hygroscopic (attracts and retains water).
Jojoba, the Orchestra Conductor
This wrongly called "oil," as it is actually a liquid wax, is one of the first cosmetic ingredients that Pedro Catalá selected to include in his formulas due to its infinite cosmetic action. It is present in Twelve Beauty's first product (Rewarding Body Balm), as well as in one of its latest launches: Jojoba Quench Body Serum. There must be a reason for it...
It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids. It has antibacterial properties, seals in moisture, soothes, and strengthens the skin barrier. It balances combination and oily skin and the skin absorbs it instantly without leaving greasy residues, due to its enormous affinity. The jojoba used in Jojoba Quench Body Serum is organic, virgin, and cold-pressed, which gives it great purity and quality, due to its chemical-free extraction process with temperature control that preserves its original properties.
Squalane, a Tailor-Made Coat for the Skin
“Although Squalane was discovered a long time ago, the constant search in the beauty world for effective active ingredients has led to renewed interest in this molecule lately,” comments Pedro Catalá. Something it shares with its colleague jojoba.
Despite its fame, the term generates a lot of confusion: Squalene or Squalane? “Squalene is one of the main constituents of human sebum that helps reduce water loss by evaporation and protects us from solar radiation and free radicals. Squalane, on the other hand, is a derivative of Squalene through hydrogenation, a chemical process accepted in natural cosmetics by which its vulnerability to oxidation is reduced and, consequently, the product is preserved better,” Pedro clarifies.
Squalene is a skin lipid (a key part of human sebum) whose function is to keep it hydrated so that it maintains its elasticity and flexibility. Its production decreases with age, which is why many creams and lotions incorporate it. That's where Squalane comes in. Thanks to this lightweight plant lipid having a molecular structure very similar to that of skin lipids, it is easily absorbed without leaving greasy residues, helping to protect the skin barrier and retain hydration.
It is one of the best plant-based agents for penetrating the upper layers of the skin and enhancing the activity of other active ingredients present in the formula. This makes it an excellent cleansing agent. Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream restores our skin's natural Squalane levels and does not alter its acid mantle, making it the ideal product for non-aggressive facial cleansing, day and night.